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QnA : Kulcha Vs Bhatura

Question : Can I prepare kulcha at home with bhatura dough on pan?

Answer : Even though most of us see and say sky is the limit in kitchen, but traditions are deservedly preserved and guarded. I do not wish to say that you can not prepare kulcha with the bhatura dough on a tawa/ pan, there will be inherent differences which may ultimately affect the overall expectation from Kulcha. I am trying to highlight the point which can be a point of difference when doughs and equipment are changed or modified upon.

  1. As you may know that both the dough themselves are differently made, e.g. bhatura dough is generally leavened with yogurt and baking powder and rested for at least 6hrs while there is no leavening agent used for kulcha dough and its resting tiem is also just 1/3rd of Bhatura dough.

  2. The rolling of the bhatura dough is more likely to spill out the stuffing inside as it is leavened, also rolling would be much more difficult if the dough is interchanged.

  3. Bhatura dough taste slightly sour which is the result of the long resting period which develop the sourness. Same is not true about the kulcha dough.

  4. As far as using the pan/griddle is concerned, it would not have profound effect in the outcome except that tandoor impregnates it with its characteristic aroma emanating from the charcoals.

I will suggest that both the dough is used for its own preparation but you can still try to see the difference. If one is comfortable with the difference, one should go ahead and continue experimenting, for their may be something worth coming as like any other experiment.

Rasagulla or Rosogulla

The culinary journey can not be replete without the mention of the sweets of the region which has carved a niche for itself all across the globe. The tinned rasagulla are also easily available in most parts of the world especially the ones boasting of trendy Indian restaurants and eateries. They are also available on the shelves of supermarkets storing ready to eat Indian food.

I was greatly surprised to find that Rasagulla originally did not belong to Bengal but travelled from the neighbouring state of Orissa. The history of Rasagulla is also not very old and it reached in the hands of Nobin Das in West Bengal somewhere around 1868 who made a name for himself while perfecting it for the masses. His recipe was readily accepted by the people of Bengal thus giving him the title of “Columbus of Rasagulla”.

Some of you adventurous readers, if still willing to explore the popular recipe in its originality, you can undertake a visit to the small village of “Pahala”, just 5 km north of Bhubaneswar which is the capital city of the state of Orissa located in eastern India.

The village has a long history of selling milk based sweets but they are different from the popular size, shape and texture of Rasagulla.  What also came in aid of of Nobin Das was that his recipe also eliminated the possibility of the sweet turning sour which was precisely the case with the Oriya recipe; hence he was able to exploit the marketing potential of this sweet at the time when travelling was arduous and time consuming.

The now eponymous K.C.Das sweet shops and ready to eat Rasgulla is the best example of how the modified recipe has changed the destiny of this famous dish. K.C. Das co-incidentally is the direct descendants of “Halwai “Moin Das and have made fortunes just selling this delectable sweet.

How would one describe it to the person who wou;d taste it for the first time. I am not sure but one can develop their own description which somehow would sound like “soft, spongy balls of cottage cheese simmered in flavoured sugar syrup…. Nicely made Rasgulla melts in your mouth and leaves you wanting more…always and nobody would know it better than the Bengalis.

The recipe which I have given below also depends upon the kind of milk you are using. The one I prefer to use if the low fat cow milk containing around 2%fat. If this remains an obstacle, then remove the cream from the cold cow milk after it has been boiled to reach nearly to the stage of obtaining 1.5-2%milk fat.

Ingredients:

2 litres 2% cow milk

¼ cup lime juice

1/4 cup warm water

2 tbsp refined flour

Syrup

2 ½ cup sugar

5 cups water

1 whole lime, halved

Preparation:

    Slowly bring the milk to boil in a suitable large stainless container stirring from time to time to prevent sticking to the bottom.. As soon as it reaches the boiling point, add the diluted lemon juice and stir to mix well. At this stage the whey will separate from the milk protein which appears like coarse big irregular cheese.
    After the curdling, the good indication of which is the clear light green whey, strain the content through a muslin cloth and in the cloth itself wash the cheese with cold running water to remove as much lime taste from the surface as possible.
    Rest the cheese in the muslin cloth, hanging it from a hook at this time for 30minutes to remove excess moisture. Do not press which will unnecessarily harden the cheese and ultimately affect the rasagulla.
    Remove the cheese on to a marble/granite/kitchen surface and start kneading until cheese is almost smooth. This may make your hand feel greasy which good indication that it has been kneaded well is.
    Sprinkle little refined flour at a time and slowly work it to amalgamate with the now smoothen cheese.
    Mix the sugar and water in a suitably large stainless steel pressure cooker and bring the mixture to a boil (without covering the pressure cooker). Drop the lemon without squeezing to clarify the impurities
    While the sugar syrup is getting ready, divide the cheese dough into equal size pieces. Shape them into balls rolling firmly between two palms until smooth on top.
    Gently add the balls to the sugar syrup and cover the pressure cooker without applying the weight. Gently simmer them in the sugar liquid until they become double in size (getting the perfect shape and size requires some good practice before you can obtain the prefect rasagulla).
    Remove the lid from the cooker and allow the rasagulla to cool down completely before touching them. They will have expanded to almost double their original size and will be delicate when hot.
    When cool, pour the rose water or saffron syrup (made by soaking the saffron strands in a little warm water) on the Rasgullas and chill for a few hours before serving.

Bon appétit

Tags: tikka masala, dhokla, vindaloo, palak, roti, sambhar, idli, handi, dal, bhatura

Bengali delicacies

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Well I remembered to keep the promise to follow up on the journey of Calcutta with some easy and popular recipes. I have purposely chosen the recipe which does not taste sweet and will give you ample choice to play around except for the key ingredients like mustard oil, mustard paste. You can choose the fish you like or available in the market and can also tone down the chilli as per your palate. So go ahead, start the preparation and enjoy your favourite fish with a bowl of steaming hot rice and salad.

Macher jhol (Fish curry)

Preparation time: 45 minutes

Cooking time : 20minutes

Serves 4

Ingredients:

1 Rohu fish

2 tbsp lemon juice

1+1 tsp turmeric powder

salt to taste

½ cup yellow mustard seeds

2 tbsp mustard oil for frying (substitute with cooking oil if not comfortable with it)
1 tbsp red chilli powder
4 red chillies whole
4 green chillies slit
2 tbsp coriander powder
1 tbsp garlic paste
1 tbsp ginger paste

½ tsp black mustard seeds
1 bay leaf
1 medium onion
1 tsp onion seeds (kalonji)

Half a bunch of fresh coriander leaves

For the preparation:

Remove the scale of the fish, make an incision in the belly of the fish to remove the gut, wash to clean the scales and blood and cut across the bones into 8 pieces. You can also clean the head of the fish and use it similarly but savouring the head requires a little bit of practice and expertise. You can also ask your fish monger to process the fish for you.

Soak the yellow mustard seeds in half cup of water for 10minutes. Blend it into a smooth paste using the same amount of water. Remove from blender and keep aside.

Peel the onion and chop finely. Clean and wash the coriander leaves, chop finely and keep aside.
For the cooking:

Using kitchen cloth, remove extra moisture from the skin of the fish by pressing gently to allow the marinade to cling.

In a bowl stir together, 1tbsp of yellow mustard paste, lime juice, 1tsp turmeric powder and salt and mix well. Marinate all the pieces with this marinade making sure that all the pieces are well coated with the paste. Keep it in the marinade for 30minutes.

Heat half the mustard oil in a non stick pan (my favourite pan which enables healthy preparations by using less oil). Place four fish pieces on to the pan and cook on one side for 3-4minutes until light brown. Repeat the process by flipping the fish over on to the other side. Place the next batch of fish and repeat the same process as of first batch cooking.  Remove from the pan and keep aside until required.

Heat the other half of the oil and bring almost to smoking point, drop mustard seeds, onion seeds and bay leaf and stir for a while until they crackle. At this stage add the finely chopped onion and continue frying for another 4-5minutes until golden brown.

Next add ginger and garlic paste and continue cooking until raw flavour of both the paste has disappeared and they are light brown, 2-3minutes. Stir in coriander powder, remaining turmeric powder and red chilli powder and continue cooking for another minute until they are well mixed in the masala. You can add a tbsp of water for time to time if it become too dry and start to burn.

Add mustard paste and continue to cook until fragrant and changed colour a little from bright yellow to very light brown.

Add water if required to obtain curry like texture. Slowly place the shallow fried fish pieces and shake the pan a little to allow the pieces to settle down. Adjust seasoning if required and bring to simmer. Oil droplets will start floating on top which is a good indication that your curry is ready. Stir the chopped coriander leaves and remove from heat.

Serve hot with either rice or chapatti as per your choice and some pickles as well.

Note: The variation of this dish would be fish kalia where the gravy is almost water like and slightly sweetened but still full of taste and aroma.

Tags: dosa, curries, indian curry, chicken, naan, idli, tandoor, bhatura, chana, handi

CULINARY DESCENT TO KOLKATTA (CALCUTTA)

Allow me to use the word Calcutta when I left the city after my hotel management education in the year 1999. The name itself does not matter a lot especially when the culinary offering of the city is always on a high much to the delight of the people who were a part of the thriving food culture in the past.

Culture descends immensely o the city and the fervour has also sneaked into for the food, right from the roadside eatery lovingly called Thela to the numerous five star hotels which dots the city line now.

Bengali cuisine has left some vivid memories in my three year association with the city and one thing is for sure, cuisine always followed the people of Bengal who migrated to different parts of the world.

I was in Delhi few days back and was not surprised to see that so many restaurants has cropped up in recent years to offer the flavour of Bengal. One that stands out to my memory is the Chowringhee restaurant located in the eastern side of Delhi. Well I may confess that someone looking for exact authenticity with the knife of high expectation may discount the experience but not everyone thinks the same. As the regional preferences and adherence are making way to new found wisdom of global cuisine, it is only apt that even non-Bengalis are making a beeline for the good Bengali food.

Chowringee lane which is close to Park Street in Kolkata has actually the real hub of pan Indian cuisine where a mere stroll will send your sensory organs on frenzy until you become a part of it and join hands to savour the spirit of the place.

The odd gramophone playing in a street corner in some old musical shop, the indiscreet amalgamation of the life forces, a few hand rickshaw pullers in the bylane is all reminiscent of old Kolkata which has somehow survived the test of time. Of course in the last nine year since I left the city, a lot has changed but what has not is the gastronomic spirit of the place.

Session in food:

Bengali cuisine is vast and consists of an array of sumptuous and healthy vegetable preparations in addition to the most delicate and eponymous fish curries and some meat curries. I frankly do not think of other state or place in India which can offer so many varieties of fish and  the related preparation right from their own fried fish, numerous types macher jhol (fish curries) like doi maach, shorshe illish, macher kalia etc. and even in the lentil preparations like muro Ghunto which is fish head with lentils).

More than the red meat, chicken dishes are very popular and some of them you would come across can by Chicken rizala, murg firangi roast, chicken biryanis, slightly sweetened chicken curries etc. I would advise you to visit few Muslim restaurant around metro cinema who would offer you some of the best biryanis, kebabs, kormas, wraps, kulfis and falooda.

If you are looking for a bit of Chinatown in Calcutta, no other place qualifies better than Tangra. Food from Tangra is a distinct variety of traditional Chinese food adapted to Indian ingredients and the Bengali palate. This has spread to the rest of India, along with the recipes earlier unique to Tangra.. While the regular fare would be all types of popular oriental soups, all types of fancy sounding chicken dishes, wide repertoire of noodles and fried rice and not so famous desserts.

The challenge, though, lies in adapting to the Bengali palate which prefers sweet much more than any other taste. Sweetening the curries a little is quite common when you eat there and often results in complain. Most of the restaurants, however, have managed to find a solution by modifying and tweaking the taste as per the diners demand.

One sure you to get stunned is looking through the numerous varieties, lines and types of sweets which is almost incomparable and more than any other shops the one you are likely to cross very other minute in Calcutta would be the shops offering right from misti doi, numerous sondesh, kulfis, rosogulla and pantuas and calling it the sweet capital of the world would be no exaggeration.

Some of the future blogs will definitely be dedicated to sharing some of the popular Bengali recipes and if somebody has got some specific request, you can always let us know through sonzyskitchen. Hope you enjoyed the journey and wait for much more to come.

Bon appétit

Tags: murgh, desi, chicken, dal, roti, bhatura, bhatura, kebab, karahi, sambhar

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