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Dal Hyderabadi Keoti

The word “keoti” means a medley of lentils here and hope is a recipe of interest for the readers
of sonzyskitchen blog. One of the cousins of this lentil recipe is called Hyderabadi Saat Nizami
which is a blend of seven lentils and host of tempering. The difficulty of this lentil has forced me
to think of its inclusion in the recipe section but if some of you reading the sonzyskitchen blog
are really interested, I will definitely send it across.
With its typical Hyderabadi flavor and mix of four lentils, dal keoti is a complex blend of lentils
where they complement each other rather than standing out. You can chose the lentil as per
your convenience and personal preference but we do outline the followings in the recipe
below.
Ingredients
¼ cup arhar dal (yellow lentil)
¼ cup masoor dal (red lentil)
¼ cup moong lentil (moong lentil without skin)
½ cup chana dal (Bengal gram)
2 medium red onion, sliced
1tsp ginger-garlic paste
¼ tsp turmeric powder
¼ tsp hot spice powder
2 fresh green chili, cut into four
2 tbsp lemon juice (dry mango powder as alternative)
2tbsp refined oil
Tempering
2 tbsp ghee
½ tsp mustard seeds
½ tsp cumin seeds
2 dry red chili
10-15 curry leaves
2-3 garlic, crushed
Method:
1. Soak the lentils separately for half an hour, boil chana dal for 10minutes or pressure
cook in enough water for 3-4minutes (2whistles).
2. Add rest of the lentils, add turmeric and salt and cook with enough water until tender.
Mash the lentil lightly.
3. Heat oil in a pan, sauté onions until light brown, 5-8minutes; add ginger-garlic paste and
sauté until raw aroma disappears. Next add lentil and some water if they are too thick.
4. Add hot spice powder and green chili and simmer for another 3-4minutes. Season with
salt and lemon juice and remove from heat.
5. For the tempering, heat ghee in a pan and add cumin seeds, mustard seeds, red chili,
curry leaves and garlic. When seeds start splattering and chili & garlic has become
aromatic, pour it onto the lentils and cover the container with a lid to trap the aroma
inside.
6. Serve hot with the Indian bread or rice of your choice.

Tags: chettinad, handi, chana, palak, gosht, idli, curries, roti, balti, dal

Dipavali

Time to acknowledge the importance of the “festival of light” in every Indian life and bask in the
glory of the festivities which also include the festival food. Divali is derived from the word
‘Dipavali’ meaning ‘a cluster of lights’. Rows and rows of small earthenware lamps are seen in
every home. Diwali is also known for fireworks which go on particularly for almost two to three
days and is especially very popular in kids and grown-ups.
Dipavali is a joyous celebration of the death of titan of hell, Narkasura at the hands of Lord
Krishna. This festivals like all other festivals and rituals, explains the inner personality of man
and his deliverance from his ignorance and ego to attainment of his supreme nature of Godrealisation.
Every man within him both positive and negative tendencies and to pull himself out
of the state of ignorance and ego, he has to employ his positive tendencies to direct his
attention to the higher Self.
Most of the culinary endeavors during this festival revolve around the myriad sweets which
form part of the symbolic transformation that brings about gaiety, joy, bliss and merry-making.
The sharing of sweets and food with friends and relatives next morning carries the new vision,
the vision of Divinity, the vision of Supreme self in one and all.
There are so many sweets which are shared during the occasion. I recount one of my favorites
called Lapsi which is a preparation of broken wheat and sugar. Broken wheat, in fact, is really
versatile as some of you can recollect its role in wheat porridge, haleem (Hyderabadi broken
wheat and ground lamb preparation). The broken wheat for this recipe is available in the
market and one can also obtain it in the home food processor.
Ingredients:
1 cup broken wheat (Dalia)
1 cup sugar
1 tsp green cardamom powder
1 tbsp chopped almond and pistachio
¼ cup full fat milk
5tbsp ghee (clarified butter)
Method:
In a pan, melt the sugar in milk, stir to dissolve equally.
In another pan, melt ghee and add broken wheat, stir from time to time and cook until wheat
takes on a golden hue and exudes nutty aroma.
Next add the sweet milk and bring to simmer until most of the liquid is absorbed and the grains
of wheat are soft and cooked. The good indication of this being ready would be the appearance
of ghee on the sides. Stir gently cardamom powder in the wheat pudding and garnish with
chopped almonds and pistachio.

Tags: kebab, balti, gosht, chana, naan, chettinad, dhokla, handi, lentil, desi

Exploring Lentil

I am myself amazed to see the variety of preparation one would come across visiting different
states of India and also the different countries of the world. While we have seen few of the
lentil recipes in the previous blogs; this does not in any sense means that the lentil repertoire is
over. In some of the upcoming blogs the effort will be to continue to witness the various
application and nuances of lentil right from a standalone main course preparation to being an
important ingredient for a particular recipe. There will be few crossovers also between Indian
and Western preparations as some of the classical Western recipes are almost made in the
same way as their Indian counterpart except for little uniqueness.
The recipe that we have chosen for today is the savoury porridge of ground meat (one can
make with mutton, lamb or beef as the case may be) lentil and wheat. In some of the cases you
may come across some traditional recipes without the lentils; so do not be taken aback by the
various versions of Haleem as the idea is not to create confusion but enjoyment. Some of the
people have also developed the chicken and fish variety for people preferring the mild flavor
out of the dish.
This traditional porridge has its roots in Middle East but the one that we have included today is
the Hyderabadi (Southern state capital of Andhra Pradesh in India) variant which is a meal in
itself. During the month of Ramadan the aroma of this porridge will fill the lungs with the
craving of the same as most of the roadside eateries to popular restaurant will make their own
version to lure the customer on the occasion of Iftar, when the day long fasting comes to an
end and allows the people to break their fast.
Haleem (mutton, lentil and pounded wheat porridge)
Preparation time: 20-30minutes
Cooking time: 45-60minutes
Serves: 4-6
Ingredients
½ cup broken wheat
½ kg mutton (alternately lamb or beef)
¼ cup masoor dal (split red lentil)
¼ cup chana dal (split Bengal gram)
4 medium red onion
1tsp ginger-garlic paste
1/3 tsp haldi (turmeric)powder
1tsp red chili powder
1/3 tsp garam masala (hot spice) powder (see the notes on e-book available with sonzyskitchen)
1/3 cup Ghee (clarified butter)
¼ cup cooking oil
2-3green chilies (optional), chopped
1 cup full fat yogurt
Salt to taste
few mint leaves
2-3 tbsp fresh lemon juice
Method:
Soak the broken wheat overnight. Boil the wheat the following day until tender in a suitably large
pan, drain any extra water and cool the wheat down. Using a grinder, grind the moist wheat until
fine and set aside.
In a separate heavy bottom pan, heat oil and fry the onions until lightly caramelized. Remove half
the onion and keep aside for later use.
To the onion remaining in the pan, add ginger-garlic paste and fry for 2-3minutes until raw
aroma of the paste has disappeared. Add mutton, both the lentils, salt, chili powder and turmeric
and cook until the liquid released by lamb have almost evaporated.
In a bowl gently whisk the yogurt until smooth and add it to the mutton taking care to lower the
heat to avoid splitting the yogurt. Stir from time to time until oil starts floating on top. At this
stage add enough water to cover the mutton, cook until the meat is tender and most of the
water has been absorbed.
Remove the pan from the heat and cool down the mixture. Next, grind the mutton mixture until
fine.
Heat ghee in a suitably large heavy bottom pan, add the ground mutton and the wheat and cook
on medium heat for 8-10minutes until the specks of ghee start coming to the sides. Add hot
spice powder and lemon juice and stir to mix well. Check the seasoning and the consistency too,
the texture should be like a thick porridge.
Remove from heat and garnish with previously kept fried onion, chopped green chili and freshly
torn mint leaves. Serve hot.

Tags: indian curry, tandoor, dhokla, desi, tandoori, naan, kulfi, idli, sambhar, chicken

Indian food and wine

Just as the lentil series was threatening to take centre stage in the preceding blogs, I have
decided to change the topic a little just as to make a happy co-incidence with the election of US
president. The mood obviously is cheerful and optimistic and so wines will take the rightful
place during the celebrations centered on food and dining.
While some of the world cuisine goes very well with wine even to the extent of matching each
of the courses with appropriate grape variety and fizz. Same is not true of Indian food which we
are trying to investigate and explore today.
With the surge in economic activity and globalization of market, it is only a matter of time that
foreign businessmen and visitor will push the Indian dining experience towards acquiring a new
dimension in the form of pairing of Indian food with wine. One could very soon see the a bottle
of wine with the slightest excuse to go with popular Indian food like curries, kormas, biryanis
and tikkas. Some of the prominent Indian restaurant under the aegis of well known hotel
brands like Caridges, ITC and Hyatt have already started the initiative with guarded caution and
some other restaurants, within the hotel and standalone, would follow the suit to bring out the
culinary subtleties of food to complement the notes of wine.
Role of Sommelier
The surest way towards a better melody of curry and wine is to trust the knowledgeable
sommelier (the French term for wine waiter) but the overzealous waiter is equally bad. The
final decision is yours and your ability to afford the elixir of life. One should still be prepared to
question the selection of wine by the sommelier if all the notes are pointing to the same
direction without much informed choices. The idea is to develop the mutually complementing
symphony than the one overpowering other.
Most of the better Indian hotels and some of the up market Indian restaurants have tied up
with their foreign counterpart and arrange training and workshop for its staff to develop the
knowledge and skill. This is also a very good exercise in revenue maximization because of the
margin involved in wines and low labour cost implication in the long term. While the pairing is
still in the infancy in India, it is a common practice in western countries to plan the food around
wine, tapas like food being one of the examples.
Challenges of Pairing Indian food and wine
While it is easier to pair food with some of the cuisines of the world notable amongst them are
Italian, French, Mediterranean because it is a part of their day to day culture, it has always been
difficult to do so with most of the Asian cuisine as it was not a part of their culture. For example
drinking Sake is always very popular with Japanese cuisine. Indian food on other hand has never
been on the same side as that of their western counterparts.
The use of spices, the distractions of oil, the pungency, the inconsistency of recipes that one
wine working with the same food in one restaurant may not be the case with other restaurant.
Mushrooming of Indian restaurants all over the world with their own anglicized Indian recipes
has also not helped the cause. Exception to the rule will always be the delicate Indian
preparations the recipes of which are always guarded secrets of some select few in the India
kitchen.
The complementary notes:
While champagne will always be the natural choice to go with almost the endless variety of
food, the selection though will have to made between brut (dry) and sec (sweet).
Italian red wines like Chianti, Amarone, Barolo, or Barbaresco will go very well with chunkier
Indian food like lamb curry, tikkas and kormas. A good Riesling (white grape) from
Germany, France or Austria would do absolute justice to spicy and lemony food.
Some of the smarter people who do not wish to experience the pain of uncertainty of
choosing red or white would go with Rose wine (wine with the reddish tinge which renders a
pink hue to the liquid) to carry them through the entire meal experience.
Surprisingly the new world wines have charted the lesser known territories than their famed
old world counterparts. Young vintages work well with most of the food and if consuming
more than one wine during the meal experience, chose the lighter wines before full bodied
ones, dry wines before sweet one and lower alcohol wines before higher alcohol wines.
Always insist on tasting the wine before approving the entire bottle; for balance of flavour
work well when you know the spices and herbs and the floral notes of your wine.
We will try to explore more of it in the coming blogs with suggestions and alternatives. Unil
then just remember the popular Latin phrase “ In vino veritas” which means there lies the
truth in wine.

Tags: chana, handi, kebab, desi, roti, tikka masala, bhatura, curries, paneer, kulfi

Khatti Dal

While going through the length and breadth of India through our culinary journey, we come
across so many common and uncommon lentil preparations, some straightforward and some
very complex. Today we will explore the streets of Hyderabad to pick up some of the best local
but unusual dal recipes. Some of you might have experienced them in local restaurants but it
always remains a challenge to produce them in the home kitchen.
Khatti dal (sour lentil stew), is the typical Hyderabadi preparation soured with either tamarind
or raw mango.
Ingredients
1 ½ cup Arhar dal (yellow lentil)
2 plum tomato, chopped
1 medium ball of tamarind
1 small knob ginger, peeled and grated
2-3clovs of garlic, crushed
½ tsp turmeric powder
½ tsp red chili powder
1 tsp coriander seeds, roasted and powdered
1-2 fresh green chili (cut into 2pieces each)
100 g fresh coriander leaves
salt
For tempering:
3 tablespoons ghee
½ teaspoons cumin seeds
10-15 fresh curry leaves
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
Method:
1. Soak tamarind in a cup of water for about 10minutes to hydrate the pulp and
remove the seed. Using the tip of your finger, force the seed out of the pulp. Discard
the seeds and pass the pulp through a strainer or muslin cloth to obtain the extract
of tamarind.
2. Wash the lentil, if using pressure cooker, cook the dal with 4 cup of water, tomato,
ginger, garlic and turmeric for 5-7 minutes (4-5whistles), allow the pressure to
escape completely before opening the lid, and remove the dal from cooker and
place in a serving container. If using a vessel to cook the dal, cook in a suitably large
container on medium heat for 20-25minutes until soft, checking in between to
ensure that they have cooked well.
3. Remove in a suitably large pan, add water if the lentil has become too thick to adjust
the consistency. Add salt, chili powder, green chili, coriander powder and tamarind
water, simmer on low heat for about 10minutes. By now most of the individual lentil
grains will give way to homogenous liquid. Season with salt.
4. For tempering, heat ghee in a small pan, add crushed garlic, cumin seeds, mustard
seeds and curry leaves. When they start splattering, pour the tempering
immediately on to the lentil, sprinkle chopped coriander on top and cover it with the
lid to trap the aroma inside.
5. Serve hot with the choice of bread or rice from Hyderabad.

Tags: karahi, chettinad, desi, kulfi, indian food, paneer, tandoor, dal, tikka masala, dhokla

A PINCH OF SAFFRON

I vividly remember my visit to Mata Vaishno Devi temple where the shop owner offered saffron
in loose quantity. Until then I always had seen or use it in 1gm plastic packet. This is the world’s
most expensive and ancient spice which is grown in Kashmir valley and parts of Spain and
Middle Eastern countries. It is actually a spice obtained from dried stigma of the flower of
saffron crocus.
Saffron is known by different names across the world but the most commonly known has its
origin from French where it was called as safran. Italian called it zaffrano, Spanish as azafran
and India as kesar. Much of the reason to its preciousness is attributed to the fact that the
flowers are available for just one to two weeks during the end of October. Each of the flowers
has three stigma and approximately 150 flowers are required to obtain 1gm of dried saffron
threads. The entire blossom is picked before sunrise or else they wilt under sun which is not
good for good quality saffron. The stigmas are then sun-dried and also at times roasted very
slowly over charcoal under controlled condition. One may come across several cultivar of
saffron across the world governed by their own country and local laws. Spanish varieties are
prized for their mellow qualities while Italian varieties are slightly more potent than Spanish,
while the most intense varieties tend to be Iranian in origin which produce around 90% of the
world production. Indian variety, though very high grade, have banned the export of high
quality saffron.
Saffron has bitter taste but used in small quantity for its coloring properties. The exposure of
dried threads to air renders the saffron dull and brittle and it loses its fragrance. Pure saffron is
believed to have the power to colour seventy thousand times its weight.
The culinary usage of saffron is found in savoury as well as sweet preparations in Iranian,
Arabic, Central Asian, European (Spanish, Italian and French), Indian, Turkish and Moroccan
cuisine. A few strand soaked either in lukewarm water or milk and added alongwith the liquid
can transform the entire dish to a gourmet’s delight. It imparts a fragrant richness and opulence
to milk and milk based desserts, rice and meat. Kashmiris often float few strands of saffron in
their tea filled samovar should any important guests come to their home. It is also offered
sprinkled over yogurt as a dowry of every Hindu bride. It is used in Italy for risotto, Bouillabaisse
in France, Paella in Spain and Cornish cake in England.
The cheaper alternative of original saffron is powdered saffron which is usually a very low grade
of saffron often highly adulterated and lack in flavor and aroma. Even though it provides
pleasing colour but it lacks in flavor and aroma and also lack the extra visual appeal of the
threads.
One of the prized usage of saffron is in the rice where every grain of rice is coated in the golden
yellow colour and richness.
Kesari rice (Saffron flavored rice)
1 cup 2yrs old basmati rice
15-20 almonds
2 ½ cups water
10 threads good quality saffron
1tbsp warm water
Pinch salt
1tbsp ghee (clarified butter)
Method:
Blanch the almond in boiling water for 15-20 seconds, drain and put them in cold water. After
the almond has cooled down, discard the water. Peel and slice into thin slivers. Toast until crisp.
Crush the saffron lightly with the back of the ladle. Place the saffron thread in a small bowl with
warm water and leave to infuse for 10minutes. This will allow the saffron to release its colour
and aroma to the water.
Bring 2 ½ cup of water to boil in a suitably large pan. Add salt and rice and give it a light stir with
a wooden spoon. Add saffron with its liquid and boil the rice uncovered over medium heat for
about 8-10minutes until all the water has been absorbed. Check for doneness and remove from
heat.
Add ghee (clarified butter) to the rice and cover lightly with a lid to prevent the aroma of the
ghee from escaping. This also ensures that the grains separate and the rice is not soggy.
Remove from the pan to a serving bowl and fluff using a fork. Serve garnished with toasted,
slivered almond along with the choice of your favourite vegetable or meat curry.

Tags: vindaloo, karahi, handi, dhokla, bhatura, kebab, balti, dosa, paneer, tandoori

What tea do you like

In my present assignment I am to help establish the outlet named “The Tea House” within the premises of comprising of six F&B outlets. In the last blog I discussed the possibility of matching the wine with the Indian food and so many of you would be surprised to learn that same matching of International food with Indian teas have been doing the rounds in the past few years. The mundane house tea of ours has several incarnation and even Indians have explored a few including their favourite “masala chai”. The other being with the addition of milk, cardamom, ginger etc.. The world of tea has not changed since our Grand Pa’s time but the theory of evolution is true for everything including tea.

Understanding tea blending

I happen to attend one tea appreciation session conducted by the tea master appointed by the eponymous ‘Tea Board of India’ in Mumbai where I came face to face with the importance of the art of blending of teas much like the art of blending wines which requires the expertise of wine masters.

As this endeavour is quite new in perspective, blending tea is not everybody’s forte. Old masters adept in this art are not that encouraging and forthcoming as they fear losing their prized secret.

Some of the aspects worth considering for blending would be the tea region, variety, tannin and caffeine content, flavouring etc. which makes it worth challenging. One can at the same time reflect on the following points which some of the tea seller make a unique sales proposition- the flavor of tea comes from essential oils contained in the leaves and not by adding the dried fruits alone.

A bad tea will always remain a bad tea and any masking of its flavor would not render it good. A good quality tea will always shine through its flavor, aroma and wholesome taste.

 

Tea growing regions of India:

Assam: A state in North-East India known for its robust, high grade black tea characterized by their strong, full bodied, bright red infusion and smooth, round malty flavour. Assam tea is generally had with the milk and the one you most often see in India houses.

It pairs well with Ham, mushrooms, fruit cakes, chocolates, fried poultry, English breakfast.

Darjeeling tea: district of Darjeeling is in the North-East India in the state of West Bengal. It is in the foothills of Himalayas and the average altitude being 2000 meter. Tea from this region is often termed as “the Champagne of Indian teas”. It is light in colour with a delicate muscatel flavour and aroma with a crisp astringency.

It pairs very well with Continental breakfast, tea sandwiches, spicy food, fish, poultry and desserts.

Kangra Valley  :
Himachal Pradesh is a petite hilly state in northern India and is one of India’s most stunning states attracting a large number of tourists every year. The state is also a major tea-producing region in India.

The Kangra region in Himachal Pradesh was first introduced to tea in 1849, by means of a Chinese hybrid plant. Light, green tea is largely produced in the Kangra Valley of Himachal Pradesh.

Nilgiris :
Tea is cultivated in the hilly regions of Kerala, Karnataka and Tamil Nadu at altitudes as high as 800 to 2000 meters above sea level. During the dry season, this tea takes on a superior, slightly lemon flavor.

The quality of tea produced here tastes quite like the tea produced in Ceylon, Sri Lanka. Nilgiri tea, as it is mostly reffered to, is originally grown in the jungle and mainly cultivated by small farmers and cultivators.

It pairs well with continental breakfast, raw vegetables, potatoes etc.

Some popular tea terms.

Black tea- it is fermented green tea which has been oxidized by fermentation. It is the most common form of tea drunk worldwide

 

Green tea- It is the non oxidized tea to avoid fermentation. They undergo roasting, rolling and firing and as soon as they are picked up they are heated to kill the enzymes which causes fermentation.

 

White tea: the leaves are picked early in spring when they are still in their bud and covered with the fine silvery white hair – hence the name

 

CTC- an acronym for crush, tear and curl which is a machine based process to obtain a stronger, more highly colored tea.

 

Enjoy the tea and look out for the some of the recipes of popular Indian tea preparation for day to day life.

Tags: vindaloo, idli, palak, handi, chana, tandoori, balti, sambhar, murgh, indian food

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