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TOFU- THE WONDER FOOD PART II

Well it is time to back up the information on tofu with some of the easy to follow and cook recipes as one would say that example is always better then the percept. As I have already told you that tofu is for everyone and it mild taste makes it a perfect foil for dishes using paneer. Like any other products with the expiry date, tofu also requires to be stored properly and once the packet has been opened it should be consumed within the stipulated time. Once opened, tofu, like paneer, has to be kept in water which should be changed daily.

One of the simple recipes which I have chosen for today is Tofu and green pea curry which is being made in India for centuries except paneer is used in place of tofu.
TOFU AND GREEN PEAS CURRY

    Ingredients
    1 packet (1lb), firm tofu
    1 ½ cup frozen green peas,
    2 tbsp cooking oil
    2 red onions
    ½ inch ginger piece
    1/3 tsp garam masala powder
    2 Fresh green chillis
    1 cup water or vegetable stock

Handful fresh coriander leaves
For the preparation:

Peel and chop the onions. Peel and chop the garlic finely. Wash the tomatoes, remove the black head and chop evenly.

Scrape the ginger, peel and chop finely. Slit the chilli in half, remove seeds and chop finely. Clean and wash coriander leaves, chop them finely.

Blanch the frozen peas in salted boiling water for 2-3minutes until cooked, immediately drain the hot water and drop the peas in ice cold water to stop cooking and preserve their bright green colour.

For cooking:

Heat oil in a pan, add the onions and sauté for good 4-5minutes until they are light brown, Add ginger and garlic at this stage and continuing cooking for 2-3minutes until raw aroma of both the ingredients have disappeared.

Next add the powdered and ground spices and continue frying for 2minutes until well blended. Drop in the tomatoes and cook until it is reduced to a pulp. Mix everything together and reduce the heat setting to low.

Add tofu and green peas, season with salt and stir for 3-4minutes until they are well coated with the thick paste. Pour in water/ vegetable stock and slowly bring to boil. Reduce to simmer for 4-5minutes until the sauce has thickened. Check seasoning and remove from heat. Garnish with freshly chopped coriander and serve hot with Indian bread or boiled rice.

Here I list some more thoughts for breaking cooking barrier with tofu and I am sure some would definitely appeal to you to include this wonderful food as a part of your diet.

1. Vegetable curries/ kormas etc.- In most of the Indian recipes with paneer, substitute with tofu keeping in mind the type of tofu required. E.g most of the curries would require firm tofu, while for bhurji (scrambled) use soft grated tofu. Sot tofu will also be required to make “tofu pasanada” (tofu layers with cutney and topped with curry)

2. Mash tofu with cottage cheese to make sandwich filling or spread.

3. For tandoori dishes, use firm tofu. E.g tandoori tofu, tofu for roomali wrap.

4. Blend silken tofu with chocolate to make mousse without eggs. E.g Kahlua soy mousse, chocolate- tofu pie.  Use silken tofu for power protein drinks, smoothies and shakes. Eg tofu and banana shake,  tofu and seasonal fruit smoothies.

Tags: balti, curries, lentil, naan, desi, karahi, tandoor, indian curry, chettinad, idli

TOFU- AN ALTERNATIVE TO PANEER?

Well, if somebody is expecting me to be judgemental about the comparison between tofu and paneer and come out with endorsing superiority, I prefer to leave the decision on to you. All I can do here to present very objective view of the two wonderful ingredients and critically analyse their credentials against the backdrop of health clamour and diet regime.

Some of you may definitely have knowledge of tofu, its culinary applications and its versatility, but I wish to give some background for the rest of the readers to help them develop their understanding of the same.

Tofu or bean curd which is the literal translation is a food of Chinese origin, made by coagulating soy milk, collecting the curdled solid in special wooden blocks and then pressing the resulting curds into blocks. There are many different varieties of tofu, including fresh tofu and tofu that has been processed in some way. Tofu has very little flavor or smell on its own, but you can also incorporate the flavour of your choice just before the stage of straining the whey. The best example could be chillies, chopped fresh coriander, roasted cumin, sautéed garlic and onion etc. The other way to impart some flavour to this simple ingredient is by marinating them with the marinade you prefer the most. It can either me simple salt and mustard paste or more complicated western marinades.

In one of the following blogs I may be tempted to give the recipe of home made tofu which may be stretching you in the kitchen for first few times but worth taking the pain to keep the cost of this ingredient under your budget.

Some of the health aspect of tofu does portray their consumption in a very positive light, for tofu is low in calories and high in protein which is very good for people living on the vegetarian diet. It is especially good for growing child and athletes. It also contains beneficial amounts of iron (especially important for women of child-bearing age) and has no saturated fat or cholesterol. Depending on the coagulant used in manufacturing, the tofu may also be high in calcium (important for bone development and maintenance), and magnesium (especially important for athletes). Tofu also contains soy isoflavones, which can mimic natural human estrogens and may have a variety of harmful or beneficial effects when eaten in sufficient quantities.

Varieties of tofu:

There is a wide variety of tofu available in both Western and Eastern markets as a result of recent resurgence of interest in this wonderful product. It can mainly be divided into two type; fresh tofu, which is produced directly from soy milk, and processed tofu, which is produced from fresh tofu. Tofu production also creates important side products like okara which are often used in various cuisines.

Fresh tofu

Depending upon the moisture content of tofu, it can be divide into three main types namely:

  • Silken/ soft tofu- Some people do make a distinction between these two but they are invariably the one. This tofu is made undrained which means that it possesses the highest moisture within itself and the texture is very similar to caramel custard of the west. It is often eaten as a dessert with minimal addition and fuss, but sometimes eaten with salty pickles or hot sauce. You can use this tofu to make power drinks also as a healthy beverage option.
  • Firm tofu- this tofu is not only drained but also pressed to remove some of the moisture which is essential to obtain firmness. It has the firmness of raw meat but bounces back readily when pressed. This type of tofu is very good to replace paneer in the dishes like matar paneer (paneer and green peas), kadhai paneer (wok toseed paneer with vegetables), palak paneer (paneer with spinach) etc. This type of tofu often has the impression of muslin cloth on top of its skin as a result of gentle press.
  • Western firm/dried tofu- This is an extra firm variety of tofu with the least amount of moisture of all fresh tofus. It has the firmness of fully cooked meat and a somewhat rubbery feel similar to paneer. When sliced thinly, this tofu can be crumbled easily.
    Fresh tofu is usually sold completely immersed in water to maintain its moisture content. It is a good alternative for grated paneer dishes like paneer bhurjee (scrambled paneer), paneer paratha (flattened Indian bread stuffed with paneer) etc.

Processed tofu

Many forms of processed tofus exist, due to the varied ways in which fresh tofu can be used. Some of these techniques originated as the need of the hour to increase the shelf life of tofu and imparthing definite interesting twist to the otherwise blacd block of protein.

Fermented

  • Pickled tofu Also called “preserved tofu, tofu is allowed to air-dry under hay which in turns produces aerial bacteria. The dry fermented tofu is then soaked in salt water, Chinese wine, vinegar, and minced chillies, or a unique mixture of whole rice, bean paste, and soybeans.

Flavored:

I have already described this version of tofu with the flavour component earlier. This is another step towards making its application universal as some of the cuisines are so robust in terms of flavour and taste. Much remains to your personal taste and preference when you make this tofu.

I will try to include few of the Indian recipes with tofu in the coming blogs so that it is easier for you to understand its boundless application in your kitchen.

Tags: chettinad, murgh, chicken, desi, idli, balti, palak, indian food, kulfi, sambhar

Delicacies of the past- royal regalia episode

While I also have to wait for sometime now to post few of the recipes from the Rajasthan
episode, it was always there in the mind to back up the earlier posted blogs with some fantastic
recipes.

Hara Mutton
1 kg shoulder of lamb
3 medium red onions
½ cup refined oil
1 bunch of fresh spinach
1small bunch of spring onion
1bunch fresh coriander leaves
2tbsp green chili paste
1tsp turmeric powder
1 ½ tsp coriander powder
1 tsp cumin powder
3 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
5 green cardamom
2 black cardamom
1 inch piece of cinnamon stick
2 bay leaves
5 cloves
2 tsp lemon juice
Salt to taste

For the preparation:
Debone the lamb, remove sinews and extra fat, cut into 1 ½ inch pieces. You can also ask your
butcher to do the same for you. For extra flavour, you can also prepare the lamb stock with the
bone by simmering it for 2-3hours with few onions, carrot, bayleaf and peppercorn.
Peel and chop the onions. Clean and wash spinach, spring onion and coriander. Blend them
using small amount of water until smooth. Remove in a bowl and add the green chili paste.

For the cooking:
Heat oil in a pan; add both the cardamoms, cinnamon and bay leaf. As soon as it starts
crackling, add chopped onions and fry until light golden. In order to enable onion release water,
add pinch of salt which is hygroscopic in nature.
Next add cubes of mutton and some salt and stir fry on medium heat until surface of lamb has
all browned. At this stage add ginger-garlic and fry for another 2 minutes.
It is the time for the masalas do the wonders now, add all the powdered maslaas and fry until
each of the mutton cubes are well coated with the blend.
Check the doneness of the mutton, add little water/ mutton stock and simmer until mutton is
almost done. Stir in the green paste from the bowl (spring onion, spinach, coriander and green
chili paste) and simmer for another 2-3minutes until mutton pieces are well coated with the
paste. Check seasoning, sprinkle lemon juice and mix well. Serve hot

The other interesting recipe which is unique and little difficult for the moderate palate is laal
maans
. It challenges even the fiercest supporters of authentic spicy food.
1 kg leg of lamb
20 red Rajasthani chili
½ cup refined oil
3 medium red onions
1 whole garlic pod
5 green cardamom
3 black cardamom
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 cup thick curd
3 tsp coriander powder
1 tsp turmeric powder
Salt to taste

For garnish
Coriander
Ginger

For the preparation:
Clean the lamb, remove excess fat, cut into 1 ½ inch cubes on the bone.
Remove stems from the chilies, slit open in half and remove seeds. Soak in warm water for
10minutes. Blend to obtain smooth paste.
Peel and crush garlic. Peel, wash and finely slice onions. Peel and cut the ginger into julienne
(matchstick size). Wash and chop coriander.
Toast the cumin in a dry pan until lightly colored and aromatic, immediately transfer to a cold
surface. Crush it into fine powder using a pestle.
Whisk curd in a bowl, add cumin, coriander and turmeric powder and whisk again lightly to mix
everything.

For the cooking:
Heat oil in a deep bottom pan, add garlic and sauté for 2minutes until lightly colored and
aromatic. Add sliced onion and both the cardamoms and fry for 8-10minutes until onion is
golden brown.
Next add mutton cubes and salt, stir for 8-10minutes until the pieces are lightly colored. Add
the yogurt mixture and simmer until most of the liquid has evaporated.
Check doneness of lamb, add enough water to cover the lamb and bring to simmer. Cover with
a lid, stirring occasionally to make sure that it is not sticking to bottom. Check for doneness
again, it should be tender and the gravy should be thick. Adjust seasoning and remove from
heat.
Garnish with chopped fresh coriander and ginger julienne and serve on the bed of chapatti as
tradition would suggest. Few people would crush some crispy poppadum on sprinkle on top of
mutton.

Tags: chicken, bhatura, curries, chana, gosht, balti, dosa, indian curry, roti, sambhar

QnA : Methi Boti Ka Lagaan


Question : Can I please have the recipe for “Methi Lagaan”?

Answer : Lagaan cooking is very popular in the traditional Awadhi cuisine and has filtered down through generation to evolve with much more grandeur and refinement. Most of the five star hotels or upmarket India restaurants will have the dishes cooked in lagan, the recipe which comes close to the request is methi boti ka lagaan because methi fenugreek leaves) does not have the aura to carry the dish all on its own.

Ingredients:

1 kg    Shoulder of lamb
1 cup    desi ghee (clarified butter)
1 cup    yogurt
1 cup    fried brown onion
4 each    green chilli
1 small bunch methi (fresh fenugreek leaves)
6 garlic cloves, chopped
½ tsp    red chilli powder
1/3 tsp    turmeric powder
½ tsp    cumin powder
½ tsp    coriander powder

Marination
½ cup   coriander leaves
¼ cup   mint leaves
1 ½ tbsp ginger garlic paste
1tbsp     raw papaya paste
2tsp      coriander powder
1tsp      red chilli powder
1tsp      cumin powder
¼ tsp    all spice powder
4 green cardamoms
2 black cardamom
4 cloves
1 medium stick cinnamon
Salt to taste

For the preparation:
Clean lamb by removing unnecessary specks of fat and slime, de-bone and cut into 1 ½ inch cubes. You can also ask your butcher to do the same for you. Alternatively you can also use the lamb with bone making sure that pieces are medium size. Crush the fried onions into coarse powder using a pestle.

Wash green chilli, slit, remove seed and cut into strips.

Marination: Clean mint and coriander, wash and finely chop. Blend using minimum water to obtain smooth paste. Put the paste in a bowl, add the remaining marinade ingredients and mix well. Blanch the fenugreek leaves, drain and immediately put into ice water. Drain again and squeeze the leaves to remove excess water. Chop them very finely or alternately blend them using a blender.

For the cooking:
Rub the cubes of meat well with the marinade and keep aside for 2hrs.
Spread ghee (keep aside 1 tbsp) in a lagaan, place the marinated meat along with the marinade to the centre of the container, pour on the whisked yogurt and onion powder, add green chilli and cook on dum (cover the lagaan with the lid and seal it with the flour dough to prevent the steam from escaping) over low heat for 45 minutes or until the meat is cooked.

In a separate pan, heat 1 tbsp of ghee, add garlic and sauté for 30seconds. Add methi leaves, red chilli powder, turmeric powder, cumin powder and coriander powder and stir to mix well. Season lightly with salt.

Add this methi to lamb and cook for another 5 minutes to allow the flavour to mingle and develop. Ideally it should be eaten the second day as the flavour keeps on developing during the resting period and this holds true for almost all the meat curries.

Serve with the choice of Indian bread or rice.

Note: If you are a vegetarian, you can use ingredients like fresh button mushroom, corn kernels with great effect.

P.S. Lagaan is a Round, deep dish made from copper, or aluminium  mainly used for making biryanis or  mughlai/awadhi curries. Its typically used in “dum” cooking.

Tags: handi, tikka masala, palak, sambhar, chettinad, tandoori, indian curry, tandoor, curries, dosa

Using Bean Sprouts in different ways

I always held the bean sprout right at the top of the ingredient list, I prefer to work with, when I am in the kitchen. It is also an integral part of my daily diet whether it is in the form of breakfast salad OR stir fried when winter has set in. The other good aspect of bean sprouts is that you can germinate the same in the comfort of your kitchen and the process is very simple. I avoid buying loose bean sprout from the market because of the unhygienic handling by the grower and the seller.

Bean sprout is a very good source of vegetarian protein, fibre and vitamins and should form a part of everyday life in any form you wish to. The breakfast bean sprouts is as follows and you can develop your own recipe as per the ingredients available and your personal taste and preferences.

Tossed bean sprout salad

Ingredients

1 cup bean sprout, picked and, washed and drained
1 small cucumber, peeled and diced small
1 small tomato, halved and diced
1 small red onion, chopped
1 small green chilli (optional)
1 tbsp freshly chopped coriander leaves
1tsp lemon juice, freshly squeezed
Salt to taste

Method:
In a glass bowl mix together bean sprouts, cucumber, tomato, onion, gren chilli, coriander leaves and lemon juice. Toss them well. Season with salt at the last moment just before serving.
If you wish you can also serve them on spiced tortilla chips commonly available or Indian poppadums
In order to give you all round western salad feeling, you can also use lettuce leaves or picked baby spinach leaves.

Stir fried bean sprout salad

Toss the bean sprout with julienned (matchstick size and shape) carrot, bell peppers, spring onion, ginger in a pan/wok with little olive oil. You can also use chopped garlic if you like. Season with salt, add chopped coriander and squeeze the lemon juice at the last moment. It is a very good snack for winters.

Moong bean burger

If you are really adventurous, you can also add bean sprouts in the burger patties when you are mixing the ingredients like mashed potato, onion, green pea, herbs and spices.  Shape them for patties, rest in the refrigerator for some time to get hardened. Pan fry in little oil or butter and sandwich it between toasted burger bun with sliced cucumber, tomato and cheese.

- Kuntal

Tags: bhatura, tandoor, dosa, paneer, indian curry, dal, tikka masala, sambhar, tandoori, gosht

QnA : Left Over Sambhar

Question : Please tell me what can be prepared from excess sambhar (apart from using for idli/dosa), pls. note it’s made from chana dal. I don’t want to throw it away. Pls. tell me where I can reuse it.

Answer: Even though Sambhar is not typically versatile because of its unique taste but there are some of the possibilities which you can easily try at home. I am not sure what kind of vegetable (mostly seasonal) you are using for making it, the same is difficult to use as they are mostly overcooked by the time sambhar is finally prepared.

There is one typical preparation in South India called “Bisi bele huliyana’ also know as “Bisi bela Bhaat” where “bisi” means hot, “bela” means dal, “Bhaat” means rice and “Huli” means sour or tangy.

Preparing Bisi Bele Bhaat

The recipe works very well with the leftover rice which alongwith leftover sambhar can a healthy, sumptuous main meal of the day. You may also come across some other recipes of this preparation in books and internet where they start with a scratch but this version also works well for soul satisfaction.

Remove the vegetables from the sambhar as much as you can, you definitely do not want them to be overdone and mushy, keep aside. Use 1 cup ice with two cups of sambhar.

Reheat the sambhar, add some water if it is too thick. Next add the rice and slowly simmer, crushing with the back of your spoon, until they resemble like thick rice porridge but still retaining some texture. Add the vegetables and mix well. Check seasoning now, sprinkle lemon juice and stir in freshly chopped coriander leaves. You can also garnish with the slivers of fresh coconut and roasted chana dal if you like some crunch into this preparation.

Preparing South Indian Lentil Soup with left over sambhar

Carefully remove the vegetables from the soup and keep aside. Blend the soup until smooth, strain if required. Put the pureed content in a pan, add coconut milk to thin it to soup consistency, garnish with freshly chopped coriander leaves and serve hot with toasted bread.

- Kuntal

Tags: sambhar, indian food, roti, bhatura, chettinad, indian curry, kulfi, palak, lentil, dal

QnA : Lazzat-e-Taam

While the request of recipe of Lazzat-e-Taam (or Lazzat-e-taum) from the readers of Sonzyskitchen.com put me in the lanes and bylanes of Lucknow, it reminds me of that journey which is worth its weight in gold.

It is actually a blend of several spices which is otherwise known as the “Awadhi garam masala” but more complex than the normal garam masala readily available in most part of the world. It is very difficult to obtain this spice-blend outside Lucknow and some of the culinary terms I came across while decoding the recipe of this blend were not known to me before. It consists of almost 25 exotic spices and common spices. While none of the spice maker in Lucknow would divulge the details of the contents and quantities of the ingredients, one book called “Dastarkhwan-e-Awadh” which mentions this spice remains out of print for most part of the year. Here we discuss some of the exotic spices which form part of this intriguing spice mix.

Some ingredients for the Lazzat-e-Taam (Avadhi garam masala) are Mitha ittr (sweet perfume), makhana (dried lotus root, we have already discussed the recipe of makhane ki kheer in the previous blogs) sonzyskitchen), and jarakush not so readily available

Jarakush or Zarakush is dried lemon grass. Quoting the gentleman who helped in the compilation of the book “Regarding Baobeer we are clueless now becuse the elderly khansama who told us about it is no more alive and the shop in Aminabad where it was supposed to be available was gutted in a fire few years back”.
Even after getting the recipe out of the book, it will require herculean effort to assemble all the ingredients contained therein. Some of the other ingredients would be as per one of my friends from Lucknowi culinary fraternity

Coriander seeds           200 grams
Sandalwood powder     25 gr
Vetiver root dried        35 gr
Bay leaf                        35 gr
Rose petals                  20 gr
Black cardamom          25 gr
Cassia buds                 30 gr
Cinnamon                    15 gr
Stone flower                30 gr
Fennel seeds                20 gr
Beetle Tree Root          35 gr
Mace                           25 gr
Camphor                     25 gr
Dry ginger                  15gm

After seeing the complication of the recipe, I also pursued the path of procuring the spice mix for our kitchen from Lucknow as some of the terms were too complicated to be decoded.

Best of Luck, Kuntal

Tags: lentil, bhatura, sambhar, dhokla, indian food, kulfi, handi, dosa, chicken, paneer

THE ROYAL REGALIA

While travelling in the Rajasthan hinterland, I was asked one very good but common question” what does it take to make a very good Biryani at home”. I remember answering to one of the guest readers of www.sonzyskitchen.com blog on the art of making good Mughlai Biryani but at this point of time, it may require greater attention to details like demystifying the ingredients and its purpose, art of steaming in vapour characterized by the lavish use of aromatic agents which produces the delirious effect and leave people spellbound. One of the reader’s question on Lazzat-e-taam” is also pending for some time which I will enquire from the master craftsmen of Lucknowi cuisine as the spice blend is difficult to procure outside Lucknow.

At this stage I wish to concentrate my focus on the multi-dimensional culinary offerings of Rajasthan which I covered briefly in my previous writing. There some really prominent foods of the state which are making splash elsewhere with little realisation of its glorious past which often covered in the thick dust of memory. With evolution, food has also changed its character and people are more than willing to modify the taste, texture, flavour, spicing to suit the palette and at the same time undergoing the risk to become oblivious of the glorious chapters of the past.

This piece of writing will try to focus on the famous Rajputana cuisine or the royal food of Rajasthan against the recent backdrop of the disappearance of the princely kingdom from the map of India.
Some of the Mahrajas or Kings are still living that dream albeit in a new context. People do regard them still as the king but their form of doing administration has take a new hue which is mostly charitable in various fields like schools, colleges, hospitals, old age home, women’s welfare, rehabilitation, town development, so on and so forth.
They have also turned their palaces, a new smart business concept, into resorts and heritage hotels which not only take care of the high maintenance and upkeep but also hands them their share of profit as well.
They are, in fact, the torch bearers of their cuisine and the privileged few will have the opportunity to savour a delicacy from their home kitchen in the cosy comfort of their palatial dining hall.

So what do they actually cook in their home? I am not sure that they themselves indulge in the mundane cooking but anyhow the question is also intriguing as to what do they actually eat in their day to day life?

One thing is for sure if you happen to become guest to one of the Mharajas that the meal will be a grand display of their opulent past, sumptuous and fill you with an experience of a lifetime.

The Rajputana cuisine was primarily based on the utilisation of game birds and game animals but with the government ban on the shikars (killing) as they would be fondly remember from a memory recoup and slaughtering has taken this aspect out of a possible game feast. Campfire was quite common during their heydays where open barbeque of the game killed that day would invite all towards a communal dining fare with light entertainment of songs and dance.

I may not recreate one of the recipes here because describing those experiences will transcend the limit today but some of them will definitely follow in the coming days.

The other intriguing aspect or application, or I may simply call it the improvisation which developed as an effect of the need was Khad cooking which was merely a royal expression of life in the outdoors during their shikar (hunting) foray. These were simple cooking parties or night out but full of pomp and show to impress their masters. The protagonist himself would indulge in these pleasures casting aside their social etiquette of mega living and would eat heartily using their hands.

A khad is a deep pit dug near the main camp so that the roasting pervades the air around and arouses the taste buds while salivating the glands. The bottom of the pit is filled with coal or charcoal which is then surrounded by dried twigs, leaves and small branches. The coal will then be topped with dried cowdung shaped like a flat round cake. This is also known as upla in some parts of India.
The meat will be smothered with marinades and should preferably be kept for 4-6hrs. It will then be wrapped in giant rotis (Indian flatbread) made with whole wheat flour and secured with a strong thread.
This parcel will again be wrapped in juts sacks and tied again with thread which then resemble like a tight jute strewn parcel. This parcel is then put on live coal and cowdung and ghee (clarified butter) is poured on to the parcel containing the meat. Fire the entire coal set-up and cover he parcel with surrounding twigs, branches. etc.
This will cook for some time depending upon the size of the meat but a typical leg of lamb would take almost close to 2hrs to get cooked.

I am not sure whether some of you can do this at home but take part if opportunity beckons you some day. Enjoy until then and wait for the next topic where I cover a recipe from the royal kitchen.

Tags: balti, roti, palak, paneer, dhokla, naan, kebab, kulfi, tandoor, dal

KAIR, SANGRI

One of the recent highlight of my trip to Jaipur was a dish made with three berries namely kair,
sangria and kumita. I am not sure whether five star hotels are the real place to have the original
experience as they are famous for developing their own version. Out of wild berries growing
freely in the Thar dessert, one of Marwari’s cuisine’s signature dish was born to be known all
around India as a culinary representative of Marwaris of Rajsthan.
Piquant and tangy, Kair-sangri-kumita is a simple vegetarian preparation and an experience of
Rajsthani cuisine is not replete without a curious bite of this otherwise mundane preparation.
Kair, sangria and kumita are actually wild berries which grow abundantly in Thar dessert region
and are there for easy picking. The scarcity of green vegetables and their high prices have
pushed these berries into day to day usage in the home kitchen of Rajsthan. Legend has it that
these berries were discovered long ago during a severe famine which struck the region. All
other natural vegetables and cattle died but Kair (small pods), Sangri and Kumita (long dried
beans) flourished uninhibited during the testing time. Their existence brought joyous
revelations and delightful reactions amongst the inhabitants who plucked all three and took
them to their home for cooking. Of these sangria is a very good source of protein, while the
other two provide the bulk in the preparation.
These three wild berries were put to test with some other ingredients in the absence of water
which came as premium during famine. As there was no water, villagers kept the berries to dry
and sourced out whatever they could lay their hand on at home from their kitchen shelves like
mustard oil, red mathania chilies, amchur (dried mango powder), salt and yogurt. A paste was
made with all the available ingredients and those three dried berries were marinated in them.
The same was stored for some day to allow the pickling flavor to develop; as a result a great
invention was born out of necessity which was consumed with bajre ki roti (millet bread).
Nowadays Kair, sangri are generally soaked overnight for their better utilization, boiled and
then fried in oil, to prepare a mouth-watering delicacy flavored with tints of dried dates, red
chillies, turmeric powder, shredded dried mango, salt, coriander and cumin seeds.These three
berries have survived the test of the time due to its long shelf life when converted to pickle and
continues to be prepared in this ostensibly simple and mundane ways, more so because much
help is available now during famines and floods. This is highly regarded, even today, as one of
the mainstays of Marwari cuisine of Rajsthan.
The modern day kitchen preparation also incorporates the fresh kair, sangri and kumita which is
soaked overnight and then simmered in yogurt based curry. These three ingredients are,
coincidentally, also a contributor to the very well know Rajsthani delicacy called “Panchkuta”
which also comprises of the other ingredients namely. Dried mathania chilies and whole dried
amchur. These are then fried with spices in little oil and served with local bread. They also do
not require refrigeration and keeps well.
KAIR, SANGRI, KUMITA KI SUBJI
¼ cup kair
¼ cup sangria
¼ cup kumita
3tbsp ghee (clarified butter)
1tsp cumin seed
2 medium red onions, peeled and sliced thinly
3 cup full fat yogurt
2tbsp besan (chickpea flour)
3tbsp coriander seed
¼ tsp turmeric powder
Salt
For garnish
Chopped fresh coriander
Ginger julienne (matchstick size)
Method:
Soak the kair, sangria a nd kumita in a non-reactive bowl (stainless steel bowl, glass bowl etc.).
Wash, drain the dried berries and discard the water. Bring them to boil in a suitably large pan
for 5-7minutes until done but still retaining a slight crunch. Drain and keep aside.
In a kadhai (Indian wok) heat ghee and bring just to smoking point, add cumin and allow to
splatter, 10seconds. Next add onion and sauté for 5-7minutes until light golden. Add kair,
sangria and kumita and continue cooking until water from the berries is released. Remove from
heat and rest until yogurt gravy is ready.
In a bowl, stir together the yogurt and besan until smooth, bring to boil in a suitably large pan/
kadhai, reduce to simmer, add turmeric and season with salt.
Next, add the berry mixture to the yogurt mixture and continue simmering at slow heat until
the sauce thickens and coat the berries.
Garnish with chopped coriander and ginger julienne and serve with the local bread of your
choice.

Tags: naan, gosht, tandoori, curries, handi, dhokla, chicken, indian food, chana, tandoor

Exploring Lentil- Bengali Kechudi (Lentil and rice gruel from West Bengal)

The story of lentil would not be complete without mention of the eponymous “Kichdi”, the Indian rice and lentil combinations. I am sure there will be as many recipes of this preparation as the number of home cooks which clearly means that people love this easy to digest and easy to prepare recipe.

The writings of 15th century suggest its origin in India when there were also the recipes containing meat as is found in offerings during the prayers of Goddess Kali. One of the varieties containing prawns is also very popular in Western India. Kichdi is also the source of inspiration of popular variation called “Kedgerre” which contains haddock and boiled egg and is found all across UK. Kichdi of the summer season are less thick than that of winter which contains more vegetables also to provide richness to counter the extremely cold nights.

Kichdi – the regional variations

Though it is popular both in India and Pakistan and in some parts of the world, it is worthwhile to look at some of the popular variations found elsewhere in different Indian states. The one served in Bengal is accompanied with Chokha (Potato hash), Begun Bhaja (Aubergine fry), chutney, papad and pickle. The gruel itself contains the seasonal vegetables like cauliflower, potato, green peas, spinach, spring onion etc. which make the entire preparation full of nutrition and taste. While it is rich delicacy found in the region of West Bengal and even fit to be offered during all the important occasions including festivals, in other parts of India it reincarnate itself as the food of the invalids and sick. Rice and lentil are cooked together until completely amalgamated and mushy and seasoned to appear as a very bland and ordinary cousin of the rich and suave Bengali delicacy.

Kichdi on its own as a main course is a very good source of carbohydrate, protein and vitamins if prepared with vegetables and essential minerals and at the same time very easy to digest.

Bengali Kechudi

Preparation time: 30minutes

Cooking time: 30minutes

Serves- 4-6

Ingredients

1 Cup broken basmati rice, washed and soaked for 30 minutes
1/2 cup arhar dal (split yellow lentil), washed and soaked for 30 minutes
½ cup Channa dal (split Bengal gram), washed and soaked for 30 minutes
1 medium onion

½ medium cauliflower

½ cups shelled peas

1 medium carrot

6-8 baby potatoes

1 Bay leaf
3 Green cardamoms
1″ Stick cinnamon
3 Cloves
1/2 tsp Cumin seeds
1 tsp Ginger, peeled and grated
1 tsp Garlic, peeled and grated
3-4 Green chilies, finely chopped
1/2 tsp Turmeric powder
1/2 tsp Garam masala powder (hot spice powder)
Salt to taste
5 Cups water
4 tbsp Ghee (clarified butter)

Chopped coriander leaves, for garnish

 

Method:

Drain lentils and rice separately and keep aside.

 

In a manual mortar and pestle crush cardamom, cinnamon and cloves lightly.

 

For the vegetables:

 

Cut the cauliflowers in small florets, peel and chop the onions, peel and dice the carrot, peel the potatoes and submerge in water to prevent discoloration.

 

Heat about three quarters of ghee in a heavy bottom vessel, add cumin seeds, bay leaf and crushed spices and fry until lightly colored and aromatic. Add onion and sauté for 3-5minutes until lightly browned. Next add grated ginger and grated garlic and continue cooking until raw aroma of ginger-garlic has disappeared.

 

At this stage, add cauliflower, drained potatoes, carrot and green peas and continue frying for 5-7 minutes until vegetables are lightly fried and light brown. Add lentil and rice and gently fry on medium heat for 2-3 minutes until all the grains are nicely coated with ghee and shiny. Add turmeric and hot spice powder and stir in to mix well. Pour in water and bring the entire mixture to boil, reduce to simmer and cover with a lid. Stir from time to time to prevent sticking to bottom. Check the gruel for doneness after most of the water is absorbed and kichdi is of porridge consistency. Check seasoning and garnish with freshly chopped coriander leaves. Just before serving stir in the remaining 1tbsp of ghee extra flavor.

Serve hot immediately with pickle, chutney and papad.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tags: curries, chana, tandoori, tandoor, kulfi, dosa, handi, vindaloo, palak, indian curry

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